Florence History and Culture
Art enthusiast's dream city
While all of Tuscany worked together to produce the Italian Renaissance, no city's influence was greater than that of Florence. This is primarily a result of the city's proud ruling family, the Medici, who devoted their vast riches to the arts like no other family in Europe. After spending more than three centuries accumulating art produced by the Renaissance masters, the Medici family ended its rule with the last grand duchess, Anna Maria, who in 1737 bequeathed her family treasures to Florence. Today this most vast of Renaissance collections is at the famous Uffizi Gallery, in the site of an impressive 16th-century Renaissance palazzo built by the famous Giorgio Vasari and commissioned by then-Duke Cosimo de' Medici. Art enthusiasts will be in absolute awe passing through its galleries filled with the sublime works of literally every virtuoso who even touched a paint brush during the Renaissance; but to name a few of its most recognizable works; Giotto's Ognissanti Maestà; Botticelli's Birth of Venus; Leonardo's Adoration of the Magi; Michelangelo's Holy Family; and Raphael's Madonna of the Goldfinch. Being Italy's center of art, Florence is endowed with a several noteworthy art museums, all of which are very much worth seeing, especially for impassioned art lovers (noted below).
But, for an even more unique experience, one only possible in a city as
architecturally rich as Florence, you have to walk around the city's
many artful layers, which begins with the Duomo and Baptistery
(although there is much more in other areas to explore). The
14th-century Duomo's façade rather aptly is among the most heavenly
creations ever made, ascending up to Paradise with successions of
white, pink, and green marble, representative of the Florentine gothic
style. The inside is truly magnificent despite the fact that much of
its art has been moved to the Duomo Museum. But the imposing nature of
its size alone makes passing through its interior a thrilling
experience. The art that remains is positively striking, such as the
terrifying judgment scene decorating the inside of the cupola; then
there is Uccello's massive clock depicting the heads of the Church
patriarchs.
There is also some notable stained glass work in the dome
designed by the early Renaissance's tightly knit group led by Donatello
and Ghiberti. But something that you absolutely must do while inside
the Duomo is climb up to its dome. This magnificent creation done by
Brunelleschi stands without support, and is the example to which all
other Renaissance cathedral domes are compared. Even Michelangelo, the
designer of the Vatican's dome, claimed that while his would be larger,
it certainly would not be lovelier. In total it is just over 460 steps
but well worth it. Across from the Duomo is St. John's Baptistery,
honoring Florence's patron saint, which many herald as Florence's most
interesting site (fascinatingly, this was once the site of a temple
honoring the god Mars, the patron of old Florence). It begins with
bronze doors completed by Ghiberti. Once you see these special works,
labeled the Gates of Paradise, you will understand how it took even a
master like him over 20 years to complete (regrettably these are
copies, but very well made ones. To see the original go to the Duomo
Museum).
With as much divine fluidity as the words that tell the
stories, Ghiberti's north doors narrate the life of Christ, from the
Angel Gabriel's Annunciation, the Nativity, to Crucifixion. After
impressing Florence with these, he was also commissioned to produce the
east doors, which include some equally stunning scenes from the Old
Testament, most notably the story of Joseph, son of Isaac. The final
set of doors is the oldest, and was completed by Andrea Pisano, who
depicted the Cardinal and Theological Virtues, and scenes from the life
of John the Baptist. Finally getting inside the Baptistery, you will
find one of Europe's most impressive mosaics adoring the ceiling. This
13th-century piece depicts the Last Judgment, with an imposing and
severe Christ, a host of angels, and a menacing, human-devouring Satan.
After witnessing a horrifying medieval interpretation of the end of the
world, what better activity than to settle into a great meal. Eating in
Florence is as good as it gets in Tuscany, and like most of the
regional cuisine, an emphasis is put on its peppery olive oil, beans
and produce, tasty cheeses, and grilled meats and game. An interesting
feature about restaurants in Florence is that a few are exclusively
"family-style," with large tables where several parties can sit, eat,
drink, and get to know each other. An excellent way to begin a meal is
with crostini di fegato, which is lightly toasted bread spread with a
topping made of chicken liver, capers, anchovies, sage, and butter. For
those wanting to try some really good lasagna, Florence is the place to
do it, with creamy béchamel and a tomato sauce made from ham, beef,
fresh vegetables, and red wine. Another Florentine favorite is
panzanella, which is essentially bread salad. It is a very simple
recipe consisting of stale bread and fresh vegetables soaked in
vinegar. A truly authentic dish is tripa all fiorentina: tripe seasoned
with spices and topped with grated cheese. Frankly, this dish is not
for everyone since some people cannot get their heads around eating
stomach lining; but for those who can, tripe Florentine-style makes for
an excellent dish. Then we have Florence's most exquisite dish, one
that everyone save vegetarians must try, bistecca alla fiorentina. The
meat used in this dish is incredibly special, coming from the oxen of
the Chianina Valley. This beef is incomparably good: tasty, tender, and
massive! All the preparation it requires is a light seasoning of salt,
pepper, and rosemary, and then it is grilled rare (eat it rare, lest
you incur the wrath of the chef and waiter). Wine drinking in Florence
is very enjoyable thanks to the Tuscan wine. The Chianti region is just
outside of Florence, so anything from Chianti, Chianti Classico, to
Chianti Classico Riserva is a great bet, especially if you are eating
bistecca alla fiorentina. Other red wine protagonists include Brunello,
Rosso di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. To pair with
lighter dishes, try the Vernaccia di San Gimigano; also Pinot Grigio
from around Florence are known to be extra vibrant and tasty.
Vacations you may enjoy in Florence
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